Out with Patrick and Margaret

Had a lovely day out with Margaret and Patrick. Geoff drove us to Chipping Onger. It was surprising how quickly the London suburbs gave way to open green fields. No urban sprawl here.

Greensted Church, in the small village of Greensted-juxta-Ongar, near Chipping Ongar in Essex, England, is the oldest wooden church in the world and probably the oldest wooden building in Europe still standing, albeit only in part, since few sections of its original wooden structure remain. The oak walls are often classified as remnants of a palisade church or a kind of early stave church, dated either to the mid-9th or mid-11th century.

 

Greensted Church has stood for nearly 1,200 years. Archaeological evidence suggests that, before there was a permanent structure, there may well have been another church, or a holy place, on the site for much longer, possibly dating back to around the 4th century.

 

Construction of the first permanent church on this site is thought to have begun shortly after St Cedd began his conversion of the East Saxon people around 654. The archaeological remnants of two simple wooden buildings were discovered under the present chancel floor, and these are thought to have been built in the late sixth or early 7th century.

 

The church's dedication to St Andrew suggests a Celtic foundation for the original sanctuary. The body of King Edmund the Martyr of East Anglia (who was killed in 870, possibly at Hoxne) is said to have rested there in 1013, on its way to reburial at Bury St Edmunds.

 

The north wall and part of the west wall of the nave; the notch, low down on the 7th trunk along from the corner, may either be a "leper's squint", or a Saxon window.

The nave is mostly original, and dendrochronological research in the 1960s dated it to 845. In 1995, however, this date was revised to 1053 +10–55 years (some time between 1063 and 1108).[5] It is made of large split oak tree trunks, which was a traditional Saxon way of building. The flint footings of the chancel wall and the pillar piscina inside the sanctuary are all that are left of any Norman work.

 

 

 

 

A crusader's grave. Apparently he was badly wounded, came back from the crusade and got as far as here and died.

 

 

 

We then had a walk along a small portion of the Essex Way to Chipping Ongar. The name "Ongar" means "grass land" and "Chipping" is from Old English cēping, "a market, a market-place".

 

 

 

First stop was Ongar Castle which is a good example of a late 11th or early 12th century Motte and Bailey, although only the earthworks survive. The motte or mound is about 70 metres in diameter at the base and is surrounded by a wet ditch up to 15 metres wide. A kidney-shaped inner bailey is to the west of the motte and there is a second bailey to the east. The remains of a town enclosure embankment extend to the west.

 

The castle may have been built by Eustace II, Count of Boulogne who obtained the manor of Ongar in 1086. It was visited by King Henry II in 1157, when it was held by Richard de Lucy. A stone keep was built on top of the motte, but this was pulled down in the 16th century and replaced by a brick building, itself destroyed in the 18th century. The motte itself is now covered with trees and is in private ownership. We walked around the motte.

 

 

 

 

 

Then peeking out behind some wonky wooden buildings on Chipping Ongar’s main street was a glimpse of the ancient town church, which is nearly a thousand years old. Built around the time of the Norman Conquest it is a result of the reallocation of lands to the victors of that war who needed new churches in their preferred style.

 

The Church itself is dedicated to St Martin of Tours, a Roman soldier, and it was originally thought that the bricks incorporated in the walls were reused Roman bricks, but it was later found that they are of 11th century manufacture.

 

Time then for lunch at a nice little pub and a bit of a sit down before heading off for our mystery tour Patrick had organised- the Kelvedon Hatch bunker.

This secret nuclear shelter was built between 1952 and 1953 as part of the ROTOR project. This was a massive redevelopment of the UK’s radar early warning system in response to Russia’s successful test of a nuclear bomb and deployment of heavy bomber aircraft capable of reaching Britain. The contract was given to Marconi Telegraph & Wireless in what was apparently the largest ever government contract awarded to a UK firm.

The construction project was a massive undertaking. After the hill was dug away, shock absorbers were first sunk 200ft (60m) into a bed of gravel. Then, on top of this, they poured a 100ft (30m) high concrete shell with walls 10ft (3.5m) thick, reinforced with tungsten rods every six inches.

So as not to interrupt building, braziers were kept burning night and day through the winter to keep frost away. Around the concrete, a Faraday cage was wired to keep out stray radio signals. Then came brickwork and waterproofing. Entrance tunnels were lined with 3ft (1m) of concrete and hidden behind massive blast doors, bore holes were sunk and water tanks built. Then the earth was replaced.

 

 

 

Lastly, to "disguise" the site, a little bungalow was built over the entrance tunnel so no one would notice what it was. Presumably the 150 foot (46m) communication mast was not considered a complete giveaway.

In the event of nuclear war, the role of the RGHQs was to house the key government and military staff needed to run the country after the bombs had finished falling. Up to 600 personnel would be shut in and left completely isolated for up to three months or until it was safe to emerge. Everything they needed for food, water, power and air conditioning was provided in the complex while multiple communication networks linked them to the other centres and hopefully the remaining population outside. It would be grim but you’d be alive.

In 1992, Kelvedon Hatch was finally closed. Running costs were still £3m a year and the site had never been used in anger. At a closed auction, the Parrish family - who had originally sold the land for the base and still farmed the surrounding fields - bought it back and now run it as a tourist attraction.

I had no idea that the level of fear of nuclear annihilation during this period was so acute. Geoff says it was one of the main reasons his Dad brought the family to Australia.

Then it was back to the flat for a sit down and cuppa before setting out for the last part of our day, the destination this time a mystery to us. Before long we realised that Patrick was leading us to the ArcelorMittal Orbit which is a 114.5 metre tall sculpture and observation tower in Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. It is Britain's largest piece of public art and is intended to be a permanent lasting legacy of London's hosting of the 2012 Summer games. The view from the top was impressive and also allows visitors to view the whole Olympic Park from two observation platforms.

 

 

Views from the top were so English

 

 

The top observation deck was full of balloons which have LEDs in them which will be turned on next week. Shame we won't be in Stratford then as it should be quite a sight.

 

 

We could see that they were making major changes to the main stadium to make it more weather proof for spectators and to make it ready to become home to a big name local football team.

 

I'm glad Patrick 'encouraged' us to visit the ArcelorMitta Orbit.