Carcassonne

We had a continental breakfast at the motel before setting off. I can't understand why the French are not all extremely overweight given their obsession with pastries and bread. They don't seem to eat protein for breakfast just carbs. Oh well, when in France.......

Then it was back up the hill to Carcassonne.

The first signs of settlement in this region have been dated to about 3500 BC, but the hill site of Carsac – a Celtic place-name that has been retained at other sites in the south – became an important trading place in the 6th century BC. The Volcae Tectosages fortified the oppidum.

Carcassonne became strategically identified when Romans fortified the hilltop around 100 BC. The main part of the lower courses of the northern ramparts dates from Gallo-Roman times. In 462 the Romans officially ceded Septimania to the Visigothic king Theodoric II who had held Carcassonne since 453; he built more fortifications at Carcassonne, which was a frontier post on the northern marches: traces of them still stand. Theodoric is thought to have begun the predecessor of the basilica that is now dedicated to Saint Nazaire. In 508 the Visigoths successfully foiled attacks by the Frankish king Clovis. Saracens from Barcelona took Carcassonne in 725, but King Pepin the Short (Pépin le Bref) drove them away in 759-60; though he took most of the south of France, he was unable to penetrate the impregnable fortress.

The medieval fortress was restored by the architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc in 1853 and added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1990.

In 1067, Carcassonne became the property of Raimond-Bernard Trencavel, viscount of Albi and Nîmes, through his marriage with Ermengard, sister of the last count of Carcassonne. In the following centuries, the Trencavel family allied in succession either with the counts of Barcelona or of Toulouse. They built the Château Comtal and the Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse. In 1096, Pope Urban II blessed the foundation stones of the new cathedral.

Carcassonne became famous in its role in the Albigensian Crusades, when the city was a stronghold of Occitan Cathars. In August 1209 the crusading army of the Papal Legate, Abbot Arnaud Amalric, forced its citizens to surrender. Raymond-Roger de Trencavel was imprisoned whilst negotiating his city's surrender, and died in mysterious circumstances three months later in his own dungeon. Simon De Montfort was appointed the new viscount. He added to the fortifications.

In 1240, Trencavel's son tried to reconquer his old domain but in vain. The city submitted to the rule of the kingdom of France in 1247.

Any of the towns population who had helped Trencavel in his attempt had there homes destroyed and were cast out of the town. King Louis IX founded the new part of the town across the river and made these inhabitants build their own houses there. It is called Bastide De St Louis.

Carcassonne became a border fortress between France and the Kingdom of Aragon under the Treaty of Corbeil (1258).

Louis and his successor Philip III built the outer ramparts. Contemporary opinion still considered the fortress impregnable. During the Hundred Years' War, Edward the Black Prince failed to take the city in 1355, although his troops destroyed the Lower Town.

Apparently the towers all had flat rather than slated conical towers and the architect who restored the fortress 150 years ago has been criticised for this error. But hey, it looks great!

The castle inside the fortress. We did a castle tour as well as a guided tour around the city.

Geoff saw a surveyor and was quick to bale him up to ask what he was doing in rather broken French. The surveyor turned out to be Spanish but did manage to tell Geoff that he was doing a survey for a 3D model of the fortress. What a dream job!

 

Mike took us on a tour of the 12th century Basilica which houses the relics of some saints. ( this is why it can be called a basilica).

The stained glass windows were 14 th century and depict the lineage of Christ. Beautiful colours and clarity.

The atmosphere was amazing within the Basilica as there was a Russian Quartet singing without accompaniment chants and Folksongs. Spine tingling acoustics and atmosphere.

Some of the original Roman walls.

We said goodbye to the fortress and walked down to meet Mike and Dott who had spent the afternoon exploring the 'new' part of Carcassonne. We crossed over the Pont Vieux.

The bridge is 210 metres long, and dates back from the Middle Ages (1359). It was during a very long time the unique link between the two parts of Carcassonne. There was an arch in the middle of the bridge, symbolizing the union (and often rivalry) between these two parts. It does not exist anymore, but there is a cross with a sculpture of Christ, unfortunately very damaged.

From our vantage point on the bridge we could sticky beak on a wedding party below.

 

From the bridge you can finally take a photo of the fortress in its entirety.

We had a wine at a wine bar then walked to the square to find tea. It was jumping. There was going to be some sort of event tomorrow and the fountain was being filled with beautiful fruit and vegetables.

There was a 'girl band' of varying ages playing and singing very French songs and we tried a duck Cassolet for tea which is speciality of this area. Lovely flavour.

Benchmark spotted by eagle eye Geoff on the way back to the hotel.

Mike and Geoff dawdled along while Dott and I finally gave up and met them back at the hotel.

Great day.